Friday, October 9, 2009

La cuisine


Sorry to have been MIA longer than intended...my classes have really picked up now, plus my internship started for real last week, so there hasn't been a lot of down time. I'm going to try to update chronologically...

The Sunday after St. Tropez, I decided to try to make brownies to take to our soirée. I couldn't find vanilla extract or baking powder, so I went without and ended up with a really good cake. (Chloe--it still rose!!) I have since learned from a friend's French roomie that baking powder is "la levure," so next time I can ask for it if the employees in Monoprix are ever not busy. We also don't have a measuring cup, so I was just eying and tasting everything. Some of the girls said they used shot glasses to measure ingredients for Patrick's birthday cake. That option didn't occur to me, which I guess is maybe a good thing.
Elyse made deviled eggs à la her mom's recipe, and they were a huge hit
Voila le gâteau.

As long as I'm on the subject of food--last week we had our first papers for Contemporary France. I chose to write about organic food (la nourriture biologique or bio), which is way more easily found in Aix than I would have at first guessed, and it's really not much more expensive either. I left the research and mandatory interviews until the last minute, so I was relieved when the guy working at the first shop I went into sat me down at a table covered with brochures and pamphlets and answered all of my questions while giving a commentary of his own. I had bought a nectarine and some carrotes rapées beforehand, but I think he would have been just as helpful if I hadn't. The paper was fine, probably, although I'm going to try to plan ahead for the next one so that I can enjoy writing it a little more.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Must blog

I'm way behind on updating, but this week has been crazy, and I have to leave in a few hours to catch our train to Paris for Elyse's birthday. If I make it through next Wednesday, I will have much to say, I promise

Monday, September 28, 2009

St. Tropez reprise




A few more pretty pics. I will write a real post when I stop having so much homework, which will hopefully be soon...

Saturday, September 26, 2009

St. Tropez

St. Tropez, where we went today on a group trip through the Office of Tourism. It was a pretty sweet deal because for 25 euros, we got transportation there and back and admission to the museum, and we were completely free to do whatever we wanted for the six or so hours we were there, which including getting many really incredible views. I wasn't sure if I'd be that crazy about St. Tropez since it's such a ritzy celebrity hot-spot, but the scenery is so worth a trip.
Geeez. I always upload my pictures out of order. Here's the marché, where they had everything, including the largest paella pan I have ever seen, which yes, was being used at the time to cook paella. I took a picture but didn't upload it because I figured other photos were more blog-worthy.
One of the things we were told we absolutely had to do was try a tarte tropezienne, which is two buttery sort of cakes filled with cream and topped with powdered sugar. We didn't go to the famous patisserie to get them because we were too eager, but these were gigantic and delicious, and we didn't have to wait in line.
Sidewalk artists were painting along the sea
The port
Sign for the museum--this was the first thing we did, even though it is not the first picture. The museum was small, but it had a nice collection of impressionist works. There were a lot of artists whom I'd never heard of (not that that says much about their renown or lack thereof), and a couple of Matisse paintings.
Moving onto the beach...naturalism is in full swing in St. Tropez. I had to take a picture because there were so many naked men standing on cliffs, looking meditatively off into the distance. Topless woman haven't been a rare occurrence at the other beaches we've been to, but this was our first nude beach. We all wore our swimsuits, but there was much discussion about under what circumstances, if any, we'd consider participating.
Cap Taillet is the access point to the beaches, but it's not part of the town of St. Tropez, so we had to get back on the bus for a short ride to get there. Georges, our guide, said we could either stay at the first beach or walk 30 minutes to another "very pretty beach." He totally undersold the walk. I'm having some trouble uploading photos, or I'd post more because I have so many. It was enough of a hike that I was glad I had worn my tevas, but not so strenuous that we couldn't stop along the way to take a million pictures. Savannah said the view just kept getting better and better, and she was totally right.

The beach was a combination of rocks and sand, mostly rocks, and the water wasn't nearly as salty as Nice or Cassis, but still salty enough to make floating very easy. Savannah and Claire are on the far right of this photo, trying to wade in. It was deep in some parts and suddenly very shallow in others, so swimming much of a distance wasn't really possible, but we floated around and climbed on the rocks. Elyse had me take an "Ariel" photo of her, but I accidentally did it on someone else's camera, so I don't have it to upload. It wasn't necessarily the prettiest beach, but the mountains around it are gorgeous.
Here's me enjoying the view in typical cliff-pose, except I decided to keep my clothes on. I picked up a postcard to mail to Amit. Maybe if I tell him that I didn't see any celebrities in St. Tropez and sound impressed that his mom sat next to someone famous on the way home, he'll feel like exciting things happen to him besides extra recess.

Soirée chez Mme Scott

Friday night we all went over to Mme Scott's for dinner. The Vanderbilt professor's apartment is really nice and has a great view of Mt. Saint-Victoire (Cézanne's favorite mountain to paint. I plan to hike it sometime soon hopefully). I meant to take a picture of the view from the porch but forgot. Here's Mme Scott explaining to us that it's considered impolite to chop off the nose of a wedge of cheese or to smear cheese on your bread. I have definitely been smearing softer cheeses.... Also, she said that one shouldn't take seconds but begged us not to obey that rule on Friday because there would be too many leftovers for them to handle. There was also pesto bowtie pasta, chicken, green beans, and cake and cookies for dessert. I'll take a better picture of Mme Scott eventually so you guys can see her purple highlights. They have gotten brighter and more plentiful each semester I've known her. She had to point them out to us fall my freshman year, and now they can be seen from quite a distance, except not in this really bad picture.
Some of the girls--left to right--Savannah, Claire (who was moving, I guess), Helen, Dani, Whitney, Whitney's visiting friend whose name I can't remember, and Elyse. We stuck around for several hours and had a really good time. Mme Scott's granddaughter, Destiny, was there, running around on a sugar-high after dessert, screaming "CHOCOLATE!" but in an endearing, non-obnoxious way, if that's possible to imagine.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Première lettre!

I got my first piece of mail yesterday--from my pen pal! It was so exciting. The stamps are all sideways and upside down. It's adorable. I thought about posting a pic of the letter, but his handwriting is a little tough to read, so here's what it said:

Dear Chelsea,
What's up? My school has started. We had [something illegible. It looks like 9cr?] on Friday (which is extra recess) and a math test and a spelling test. Nothing exciting ever happens. On the way back home a famous guy sat by Mom.

From Amit

p.s. If you don't remember me I'm the kid from the plane.

: ) I have been meaning to send him a postcard, so I better do that soon. Soirée tonight for all the students chez Mme Scott, who is the professor in residence this year, and then tomorrow a few of us are going to St. Tropez for the day. It should be a fun weekend, although we just realized today how much work we have coming up very soon...longer, more informative post later.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Goût de la France

Tonight, we had escargot chez Marchetto. A few dinners ago, Mme Marchetto asked us if there were any French dishes we'd heard about but hadn't had a chance to try, and Elyse said escargot. I was apparently the only one who knew she was joking, so we weren't too surprised when there were two snails on our salad plates tonight. While Mme Marchetto was in the kitchen, Eloise, one of the Sewanee girls who is American but has French parents, started singing "We're all in this together." They tasted pretty good, even though the thought of eating snails is weird, and they are very chewy, so actually consuming them isn't the most enjoyable experience. Also, they don't look very appetizing once out of the shell...or in the shell, really. I'd definitely eat them again, although I don't plan on scooping them out of the gutters to cook (Mme Marchetto said French people actually do that in certain areas). There was also fish in the gratin, so it was a pretty rough dinner for Elyse.

At both houses, we usually have yogurt or fruit-based things for dessert. Eloise is allergic to gluten, so that rules out cakes and pastries, etc, which is kind of unfortunate, but actually not that big a deal. One time at the Daniels', we each had a pear to eat with gorgonzola cheese, and it was awesome. I love pears.

I'm really glad we get to eat with two families because the experiences are so different. The Daniels always have a lot to say, and we often don't get a word in edgewise, but they are really generous with the food, which is really, really good. Mme Daniel always says "Tout va disparaître!" (everything must disappear!), and M. Daniel refills our wine glasses about a million times. They always drink rosé, which is the wine of Provence. M. Daniel often murmurs to himself, likes to say basic French phrases with an exaggerated southern American accent ("mayor-see-boo-coo"), and sometimes sings. Mme Daniel is usually un petit peu gaie (tipsy), according to our dinnermates, although Elyse and I usually sit at M. Daniel's end of the table, so we were unaware. One of the students who was here over the summer too says she always drinks while cooking, and then of course, she drinks while we're eating, and he thinks she has some wine every time she goes back to the kitchen to get the next course. They are really funny.

At the Marchettos', the food is delicious too, and with the exception of tonight's meal, probably more similar to what Americans eat. There are often long pauses in the conversation, but Alexia and her mom ask more questions and want to how things are in the United States versus en France. Tonight we talked about marriage and divorce, which our Contemporary France prof had said was a taboo topic--the French discuss politics and religion with anyone and everyone, but they don't like to bring up family history, relationships, etc with people they don't know well--so I was kind of surprised.

On a somewhat related note, kissing someone on the cheek in greeting (faire la bise) is actually what the French do whenever they meet someone for the first time. I had kind of assumed that it was reserved for greeting people you knew, but au contraire. Elyse and I have had a few awkward encounters with people who expected us to faire la bise after saying hello when we didn't see it coming. Hugs are reserved for romantic relationships. Oh, and they do occasionally shake hands, although usually just men. Some people even kiss each cheek twice instead of once, but I have yet to personally experience that.

Mme Marchetto asked if any of us had objections to eating rabbit (lapin), and no one did, so we're having that on Thursday. For some reason, I feel like that will be harder for me to eat than anything else--not that the escargot was really hard for me to eat--even though I had a bite of Evan's once in Italy, so I already know how it tastes. We will see.